One can never have enough socks, said Dumbledore, Another Christmas has come and gone and I didn't get a single pair. People will insist on giving me books." –wrote J.K Rowling in Harry Potter and the Sorcerer's Stone. In Christimas we all bask in a magical fantasy be it Kohima or Guwahati. Manipur or Aizawl. If you are looking for a perfect Christian ambience of Christmas you must go to any city in the North East. Last year Christmas celebrations were disrupted in Assam's Silchar when members of the Bajrang Dal - a right-wing group forced their way into a church and demanded it be shut down because Hindus could not take part in the festivities.The attackers claimed they had no issue with Christians celebrating Christmas but declared they would not allow Hindus to do so, because December 25 was also 'Tulsi Diwas'. "We are not against Christmas... let only Christians celebrate Christmas. We are against Hindu boys and girls participating in Christmas functions. Today it is Tulsi Diwas of Hindus, but no one celebrated. It hurts our sentiments... everyone is saying Merry Christmas. How will our religion survive?" In spite of this, Christmas brings a message of joy and solemnity when the choirs perform on Christmas night, 'Come Home Christmas.'
In the whole of North East India, joyous Christmas carols make a lifetime of memories. Here, you'll find cozy shops offering holiday gifts for everyone on your list. Then, grab a bite to eat from one of the many fabulous restaurants. Even the pickiest eaters will find something they enjoy! Offering outdoor activities like visiting the waterfalls and wonderful sights, the Christmassy towns in the Northeast will also keep everyone in your family busy and smiling, Christmas bells, holly and other festive paraphernalia are on sale as shoppers flock to the markets. Glimpses of a decked-up city donning mesmerising lights and other creative decorations will welcome visitors till January 3. The lights will be turned on from 5 pm to midnight daily. Christians in the Northeast will immerse themselves in the ecstasy of Christmas which seems to have gripped the City of Clouds. The cityscape is currently bathed in lights and other goodness await the arrival of the festival. Several houses, churches, commercial buildings and streets are decorated with Christmas trees and lighting in Guwahati.
We witness a huge rush of people, thronging the markets in preparation for Christmas in keeping with the festive mood in the state capital. The rural areas too nowadays are responding to the urban vibes and they too do not feel any antagonism towards what is considered western culture by many. There are a large number of Christians in Assam too but not so much as in the other northeastern states. The spirit of tolerance is now commendable and the choirs are performing in the semi-urban areas too. Nagaon, Jorhat, Golaghat and Shibsagar are all organising festivals during Christmas. While in the other states, Christianity is a part of life, this is not so with Assam. The young generation and the more educated section of people in the city areas are taking the initiative to celebrate Christmas. This year the state government is taking strict security measures for celebrating Christmas. While in Guwahati as in Kolkata, Christmas is more a secular celebration for non-Christians it is more solemnly observed in the other states of the Northeast. The fragrance of cakes and flowers are. however, same for Guwahati Manipur Aizawl, Kohima and Shillong during the Christmas celebration. With so much to do before Ol' Saint Nick comes down the chimney, Shillong is ready to offer lots of dreams for all to enjoy when Christmas creeps up.
While in Nagaland or Mizoram, Christmas is whiter due to the snowfall, in Kolkata or Guwahati or even in Shillong, Christmas is less cold. Still while one stands in the streets of Panbazar in the night of December 25, one may not feel any difference as such, except the cold. Guwahati is not colder than Shillong during this time. But with a sip of whisky or the enjoyment in a cosy get together at a coffee shop like Barista, the little differences are forgotten.
In Shillong tourists throng the place in large numbers during Christmas celebrations. As the holidays are longer during this time, tourists from all over India prefer to come to Shillong and their presence makes Shillong a Mini India during the season. No such tourists from outside Bengal come to Kolkata in such a large numbers, though people in great numbers visit the Victoria Memorial or Alipore Zoo. The immigrant birds from Siberia also fly over to Alipore Zoo during this time but not to celebrate Christmas. No such thing happens in Kaziranga or Guwahati either during Christmas. But there is a big similarity in the entertainment provided by the choir and the musical band. The Choir group is often out with their Christmas album. Last year their album 'Come Home Christmas' was a superhit and this Shillong band came to perform also in Guwahati. The young generation enjoys more at this time of the year.
This multi-genre choir group which was founded in 2001 by Neil Aramaic won a lot of awards at the national level and even performed during the visit of Barack Obama to India. The choirs from Kalimpong and Darjeeling come to Kolkata and Guwahati to sing Christmas carols. We have Gospel Choirs performances and people enjoy with brunch, Santa Claus gift distributions and Christmas dinners in various parts of the city. PVR and Inox are houseful during the period most of them screening English films. The events organised during Christmas are heavily focused on bringing to the forefront the hidden gems, which are so deeply entrenched in its culture and traditions and has fostered the growth of entrepreneurs in handicrafts, handloom, music, food, art, literature, and also other niche talents. The stalls and experiences wholly represent the local talent and cultures of Northeast. This is not so with Kolkata.
Christmas which is looked upon more as a day for celebration, fun and entertainment, is more secular in spirit and a general celebration for the people who are both Christian and non-Christian. In Shillong we see Christmas as a more solemn affair and it is more linked to the culture and heritage of Meghalaya. Having all said and done. the million dollar question about Christmas remains as was raised by Benjamin Franklin long ago, " How many observe Christ's Birthday! How few his precepts."
Dr Ratan Bhattacharjee
Former International Visiting Professor USA
Trilingual writer may be reached at profratanbhattacharjee@gmail.com
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