That’s not enough for a buffalo

Life could be more adventurous if you are brave enough to face challenges, and he took aventuresome approach to an interior settlement in the hills of Dima Hasao, then NC Hills, while he was serving as an ADC. It was ‘Semkhor’, the warrior village; it had once guarded the erstwhile Dimasa Kingdom with all its might from invaders and Naga head-hunters. The land of undiscovered mystery might have haunted him to sightsee around the natural habitat. His associates were really surprised by his noble idea of visiting a 400-year-old hamlet that cries for development.

He wished to make it something unusual and thus informed DC about the plan. It surprised him at the arrival of two PSOs, even though he stepped up to go without them. Dimasas are the first and only original inhabitants of Assam. They are called the sons of the mighty river and were also the rulers prior to the advent of the Ahoms in the 13th century. Haflong is the only hill station and the headquarters of the least populous Dima Hasao district.

He set off to explore from the HQs in Maibong, traversing through the windy roads. By virtue of its geographical location, it’s considered the fulcrum between the Brahmaputra and the Barak valleys. The convoy kept moving with the red beacon atop it. The iconic white Ambassador The 30-km-long drive was mesmerising, mesmerised by treacherous roads and witnessing the exotic world of plants and birds. The everlasting beauty of clouds once floated high over hills and valleys.

They were finally halted over a large fallen log blocking the narrow passage; the worst fears had been realised: the path came to a dead end while virtually no drive was possible inside the dense forest. The sun almost disappeared behind a rain cloud. Three energetic Dimasas arrived at once, whose packs were heavier than their bodies. Three bags full of rice, dal, and salt were offloaded and carried towering loads on their backs, supported by a strap over their foreheads. These tribal people used to carry their needs up and down the mountains. It’s a wonder how they could manage such feats of strength and endurance. With trekking being the only source of access, the isolated geography made it necessary to do so.

It wasn’t a red-carpet event at Semkhor. A few settlements of houses in the valley were a bit primitive. The gentle wind had probably broken the silence of that quiet parish. The primaeval days of history in the Diyang Valley looked deserted as the mountainous regions were inaccessible. All of a sudden, a group of girls and women assembled after a warbling whistle called out to fall in. They live in isolation and are self-contained day after day, year after year.

Semkhar is inhabited by the Semcha sub-tribe of Dimasa-Kachari. Khunang, the village headman, came with a bare body, as the lifestyle in the wilderness does not suit civilised clothing, but he gave a speech like a reigning monarch, wearing a strip of decorative head wrap and a long sash looping over his shoulder. Incidentally, there were no adult boys seen, as they feared getting caught.

The headman made a speech about the lack of roads and education: You have the power of the ocean, and we desperately needed a helping hand when villagers are plagued by a poverty-stricken land”. The residents depend on rainfall and have been facing a battle for survival for so long. Any traveller would be fascinated by the mysterious stories of the abandoned hills. Their religious practises and rituals are quintessentially unique.

He was attentive, carefully listening to the headman’s appeal amid a crowd of fascinated onlookers. The bagful of rations was placed for a community feast, and a few hundred rupees were for a meat recipe. The headman retorted instantly “That’s not enough for a Buffalo”. His approval for another thousand was instant.

With a heavy heart for those humble dwellers, he turned to wave goodbye. It took away only memories and left behind footprints. Semkhor still struggles for a living even today. To fulfil wanderlust, Dr. S. Nath has shared memories that inspired me to write the sequence of a gripping narrative.

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