Craft of Assamese silk: Muga, Eri, and Pat

Himangshu Ranjan Bhuyan

(himangshur1989@gmail.com)

The rich tradition of silk weaving in Assam has long been woven into the cultural and economic fabric of the state. In a land known for its verdant tea gardens and lush landscapes, silk weaving stands as a testament to the deep connection between the people and their land. The three primary silks of Assam—Muga, Eri, and Pat—each hold a unique place in the heritage of the region, telling stories of history, craftsmanship, sustainability, and cultural identity. The significance of these silks extends far beyond their aesthetic appeal, embodying the values of the Assamese people and the diverse ways they have lived in harmony with nature.

Muga, Eri, and Pat silks have distinct characteristics that make them not just materials for clothing but integral parts of Assamese life. Among them, Muga stands out, celebrated not only for its quality but also for its rarity. Known as the “Golden Silk,” Muga is a natural treasure of Assam, prized for its golden-yellow hue, which is a result of the silk’s unique production process. The Muga silk comes from the larvae of the Antheraea assamensis moth, which is indigenous to Assam and other parts of Northeast India. It is considered one of the oldest forms of silk weaving in the world, with its origins traceable to over 5,000 years ago. The silk produced by this moth is unlike any other; it is durable, lustrous, and resilient. Its distinct golden tint, which grows deeper with age, has earned Muga a reputation for its opulence, making it a symbol of Assam’s royal heritage.

The process of creating Muga silk is complex, requiring immense skill and patience. The Muga silkworm feeds primarily on the leaves of the Assam tea plant, and the environment in which it is cultivated is crucial to the quality of the silk. Unlike many other silks, Muga silk is not harvested from the cocoon until after the moth has emerged, which allows the fibres to be longer and stronger. The silk threads are carefully unwound and spun, with a traditional weaving process that requires the skill of master weavers. The artisans use handlooms to create intricate patterns that are woven into fabrics of remarkable texture and sheen. What makes Muga silk particularly significant is its longevity. Unlike most silks, Muga becomes more beautiful and rich over time, and garments made from it are often passed down through generations. It is especially coveted for ceremonial attire such as the mekhela chador and saree, which are worn during significant cultural and religious occasions in Assam. The exceptional quality of Muga silk and its association with Assamese identity have contributed to its status as a prized commodity both within India and abroad.

In contrast to Muga, Eri silk is perhaps the most eco-friendly and ethically produced silk in Assam. Referred to as “Ahimsa Silk,” Eri is unique in that its production process is based on the principle of non-violence, a philosophy rooted in Assam’s broader cultural and spiritual practices. The Eri silkworm, or Samia ricini, is typically fed castor leaves and allowed to complete its entire life cycle before harvesting the silk. This stands in stark contrast to the more conventional methods of silk production, in which silkworms are often killed during the extraction of the silk. Eri silk, therefore, appeals to a growing global market that is conscious of ethical and sustainable production methods. The silk itself has a wool-like texture, and its colour can vary from ivory to light beige. The fabric produced from Eri silk is often described as soft, warm, and breathable, making it a popular choice for shawls, stoles, and blankets, as well as for traditional Assamese clothing such as the mekhela chador.

The appeal of Eri silk extends beyond its comfort and aesthetic qualities. Its production process is more sustainable than that of other silks, which require more intensive farming practices and are often associated with greater environmental harm. Eri silkworms feed on castor plants, which are relatively low-maintenance and do not require large amounts of water or chemicals to grow. Furthermore, the harvesting process for Eri silk is less disruptive to the natural lifecycle of the silkworm, contributing to its ethical status. The growing popularity of Eri silk is reflective of a broader global shift toward sustainability and ethical production. As consumers become more aware of the environmental and social impacts of their purchasing decisions, products like Eri silk that offer both quality and an eco-friendly production process have become increasingly desirable. In Assam, Eri silk weaving has not only contributed to the state’s economy but also helped to preserve ancient traditions and support rural livelihoods, particularly in areas where weaving skills have been passed down through generations.

Pat silk, while less rare than Muga, is equally significant in Assam’s cultural heritage. Produced from the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori), pat silk is characterized by its softness, lightness, and lustrous sheen. Though Pat silk is produced in many parts of India, Assam’s climate and soil conditions give it a distinct texture and quality. The Pat silkworm feeds on the leaves of the mulberry tree, which is widely cultivated in Assam, and the silk is harvested through a boiling process that extracts the fibers. The fabric created from Pat silk is known for its versatility and is used in a wide range of traditional garments, including the mekhela chador, saris, and shawls. Unlike Muga silk, which is often reserved for special occasions, Pat silk is more commonly worn for everyday use, although it is still highly valued for its beauty and softness. The silk is typically dyed in vibrant colours, and intricate patterns are woven into the fabric using traditional handlooms. These patterns often carry cultural significance, reflecting the motifs of Assamese folklore, nature, and history.

Despite its relative affordability compared to Muga, Pat silk faces challenges in the contemporary market. The rise of synthetic textiles and cheaper production methods has placed pressure on the traditional handloom industry, and the market for Pat silk, particularly for high-quality products, has seen some decline. However, Pat silk continues to play a crucial role in maintaining Assam’s silk heritage. Local artisans are working to preserve and revitalise the industry by promoting traditional weaving techniques and creating a sustainable market for Pat silk products. Efforts to maintain the quality of Pat silk and revitalise the craft have included initiatives aimed at improving the livelihoods of weavers, enhancing the skill sets of artisans, and expanding the market for Assamese silk through national and international channels. The Pat silk industry, though facing challenges, remains an essential part of the Assamese economy, sustaining rural families and communities and helping to preserve the cultural identity of Assam.

The silk weaving industry in Assam is deeply intertwined with the state’s social and economic landscape. The process of silk production involves a complex web of activities, from the cultivation of mulberry and castor plants to the rearing of silkworms, the spinning of threads, and the weaving of fabrics. This network of activities provides livelihoods for thousands of people, particularly in rural areas where traditional skills are passed down through generations. Silk weaving is not only an economic activity but also a cultural one, as it is tied to the rituals and traditions of the Assamese people. The making of a traditional garment from Assamese silk is often a communal event, involving not just the weavers but also the dyers, the farmers, and the families who wear the garments.

In recent years, the global market for silk has undergone significant changes, with an increasing demand for sustainable, organic, and eco-friendly textiles. This shift in consumer preferences has benefitted the Assamese silk industry, particularly in the case of Muga and Eri silks, which are both prized for their natural qualities and ethical production processes. While Pat silk continues to face competition from cheaper alternatives, its cultural significance ensures its continued relevance in Assamese society. Assamese silk industry, as with many traditional crafts, lies in balancing the preservation of traditional techniques with the demands of a modern, globalised market.

The future of Assamese silk weaving hinges on several factors, including the promotion of traditional weaving techniques, the development of sustainable practices, and the establishment of robust markets for these silks. Efforts to modernise the handloom industry, improve the livelihoods of artisans, and promote the cultural significance of Assamese silks are vital for the continued success of the industry. In particular, the growing global interest in sustainable and ethical fashion presents an opportunity for Assam’s silk industry to establish itself as a leader in the production of high-quality, environmentally friendly textiles. The success of Assamese silks on the international stage will depend on a combination of preserving the artisanal heritage of silk weaving, adapting to market trends, and promoting the unique cultural identity that these silks represent.

In conclusion, the craft of Assamese silk is far more than a form of textile production. It is a vital part of Assam’s cultural heritage and an integral aspect of its economic and social life. Muga, Eri, and Pat silks each offer a unique perspective on the relationship between nature, culture, and craftsmanship. The continued production of these silks is essential not only for preserving the rich tradition of silk weaving in Assam but also for ensuring that the livelihoods of artisans are sustained for future generations. As global interest in ethical and sustainable fashion continues to grow, Assam’s silks are well-positioned to play an even more prominent role in the global textile industry, offering consumers high-quality, eco-friendly products that carry with them the legacy of centuries of craftsmanship.